The Best Hikes and a Guide to Yosemite National Park

We worked in Stockton, CA for 4 months in 2022 and 8 months in 2024. Fortunately for us, Yosemite National Park was only a 2 hour drive. At least to the Big Oak Flat Entrance. During our time in Stockton, we went to Yosemite 6 separate times and in all 4 seasons. We have had the opportunity to explore different areas of the park, camped in and outside of it, and hike many of the most popular trails.

I can remember the first time that we drove down into Yosemite Valley and being in awe at the first glimpse of Half Dome. Then driving through the lower valley and my jaw dropping at the sight of the enormous granite rock cliff of El Capitan (we had just watched Free Solo!). Continuing around the bend to see Brandywine Falls, Yosemite Falls, and then Half Dome up close and personal.

There really is nowhere like Yosemite National Park. We have met European tourists while abroad who dream of visiting the US and seeing the park (meanwhile, some of our coworkers in Stockton have never been!). Yosemite National Park is a must do in our opinion and here is our breakdown of where to camp, hike, and areas to see when you come to the famous, busy park.

RESERVATIONS:

First to know is that you will need reservations to get into the park depending on the time of year that you go. The reservation system is necessary due to the high influx of visitors the park gets each year, with as high as 600,000 visitors in the month of August alone.

Typically, the reservation requirements start around Memorial Day and end around the start of October. Reservations are also required on weekends throughout the month of February for Firefall season. A reservation to a campground, Half Dome permit, or wilderness permit will get you into the park.

You can also get into the park without a reservation before or after the entrance booths to the park are opened, before 6am and after 5pm. Adam and I forgot to get permits one June weekend while we were car camping just outside Big Oak Flats entrance. We just woke up early to get into the park and headed to the trailhead parking lot to make breakfast out of our car.

Check out the national park service website for more info on reservation requirements because they change each year.

BEST TIME OF YEAR TO GO:

Summer:

This is the busiest time for Yosemite National Park. There are traffic jams getting into the park during the busy hours and we have heard of wait times up to 3 hours. Beat the heat and the traffic by getting to the park early or camping inside the park.

All hikes and roads are accessible during the summer and the water in the valley and lakes are a perfect temperature to take a dip in. We loved paddle boarding at Tenaya Lake and wading in the Merced River. Make sure to bring sunscreen, a sun shirt and plenty of water!

Fall:

November was one of our favorite times to come to the park. The crowds and temps were low and the leaves were changing into their bright reds, oranges, and yellows. All of the hikes were still accessible with snow at the highest points. A huge snow pile was forming at the base of Upper Yosemite Falls, which was a unique sight that we were not expecting.

The first time that we came to Yosemite was in October. This was the first weekend that the reservation permit system was over. It was very busy and Upper Yosemite Falls was just a trickle of water at this time.

Winter:

Half Dome covered in snow is absolutely stunning. Driving through the woods to the valley from Big Oak Flat entrance is like a winter wonderland. Firefall in February sounds like an incredible and extraordinary sight to see. February is also a very busy time in the park due to the Firefall, and you need a reservation. for that.

However, Tioga Road and Glacier Road are closed during the winter time. Some hikes are inaccessible due to the snow at the highest points. Snowshoeing to Dewey Point is a great option in Winter!

Spring:

Spring is a great time to go for the flowers popping up in the valley. This is the peak time to see the waterfalls bursting with snowmelt. The temperatures are still cool and the crowds are still thin before school is out for summer.

Beware of mosquitoes at this time of year as the snowmelt attracts the bugs. We hiked Clouds Rest in the spring and were attached by mosquitos. This is also the time we saw a bear along the side of the road!

Depending on the snow the park got during the winter season, Tioga Pass and Glacier Point Road may still be closed. Make sure to monitor the national park service website for when the snow has been cleared if you are trying to access hikes above the valley like Clouds Rest or get to Glacier Point.

ENTRANCES:

Big Oak Flat:

This is the northernmost entrance from highway 120 and is more easily accessed if you are coming from the North or West. Big Oak Flat was the entrance we used driving in from Stockton. We camped at the Sweetwater Campground 16min from this entrance and car camped on BLM or National Forest land just outside the entrance. Hetch Hetchy and Tioga Pass are closest to Big Oak Flat.

Stop by Prady’s Viewpoint on your way into Yosemite Valley. I personally like this view better than Tunnel View. Maybe I am biased because this was my first glimpse of half dome and it feels special. Half dome is perfectly framed between El Capitan and other green cliff sides.

Be sure to stop by Around the Horn Brewing when driving through Groveland on your way in or out of the park. We stopped here every time we visited Yosemite. We loved to sit at the bartop and chat with the friendly locals or other tourists driving through. They have great beer with some names that are a spin on the national park.

El Portal:

This is the central entrance gate from highway 140 and is more easily accessed if you are driving from the North or West. The drive to the El Portal entrance is along the Merced River and takes you right into Yosemite Valley. This entrance is known for the rock tunnel that you can drive through to get to the park.

South Entrance:

This is the entrance off Wawona Road or highway 41 and is more easily accessed if you are driving in from the South. Mariposa Grove is near this entrance and known for the giant Sequoia trees. There is a welcome plaza and the trailhead to the popular trail called Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias is nearby. The South Entrance takes you through the Wawona Tunnel to the famous Tunnel View as your first peek of Yosemite Valley.

WHERE TO STAY INSIDE THE PARK:

Upper OR Lower Pines Campground:

We have been lucky enough to stay at the Lower Pines Campground twice. It is a great location that is walking distance to multiple trails and Curry Village. Booking a campground inside the park also gives you a permit into a park if you are staying during a time Yosemite it requiring reservations.

Planning is required to book the campsite, because they are taken up quickly. The campsites are available to reserve up to 5-6 months in advance on the 15th of each month. Another tip is to monitor the website every few days leading up to your trip, because people cancel all the time and something might become available! Check here for availability and to book your campsite!

Camp 4:

This is a campsite in the Yosemite Valley that is for tent camping only. It is near El Cap and the trailhead to Upper Yosemite Falls. We have not stayed here before because they do not allow car camping. It looks like a great spot though! Check here for availability and to book your campsite.

The Ahwahnee:

The Ahwahnee Hotel is more of an upscale accommodation located on the valley floor. There is a pool, restaurants and bar, and giftshop. We have been told to get a cocktail here. The only way to park at the property is through a valet, so we have yet to explore the hotel. Let us know if you have been there and what you think!

Curry Village:

Curry Village is a family friendly accommodation that has everything you could ask for. It was started by a couple of teachers who wanted to improve access to the park. There are tent cabins, motel rooms, and wood sided cabins. We have gone to the grocery store, coffee shop, and Bar 1899 while camping at the Lower Pines.

WHERE TO STAY OUTSIDE THE PARK:

Sweetwater Campground:

We stayed here on our first ever trip to Yosemite National Park when all of the campgrounds in the park were already fully booked. The Sweetwater Campground is about 16 minutes from the Big Oak Flat Entrance. It has bathrooms and is a great option for camping if the campsites at the park are full. You can book here.

Car Camp on BLM or National Forest Land:

We have done this a few times right outside the Big Oak Flat Entrance. This is a great option for those spontaneous trips where it is too late to get reservations.

Check out our blog on car camping for the best tips on finding a spot, how to pack your car, and how to make it comfortable to camp out of!

Airbnb/ Hotel in Mariposa:

A small town at the intersection of CA-49 and CA-140, about 45 minutes from the Central Entrance on Portal Road. The town is walkable with tourist shops, restaurants and grocery stores. Check out the 1850 Restaurant and Brewery for some great beer that you can even find in Yosemite National Park.

Airbnb/ Hotel in Groveland:

A small town off CA-120, about 35 minutes from the Big Oak Flat Entrance. This is the town we always drove through on the way to Yosemite from Stockton. The whole family stayed at an Airbnb here when we hiked Half Dome. Be sure to check out Around the Horn Brewing for some great beer with some Yosemite themes.

Rush Creek Lodge and Spa at Yosemite:

This Rush Creek Lodge is right outside the Big Oak Flat Entrance and appears to be a great place to bring a family. We came up here for a drink at their restaurant when we were staying outside the park and were impressed with all the lodge has to offer. There is a pool, spa, bar, gift shop and outdoor games and activities for the whole family to enjoy.

Other Options:

This is by no means an extensive list. Just places that we have stayed at or visited. There are a multitude of options of places to stay in and around Yosemite National Park.

GETTING AROUND YOSEMITE VALLEY:

No matter how you get into the lower valley, there is only a one way loop paved road through Yosemite Valley. This means that if you see a parking spot at the trailhead or where you need to go, you should snag it. Otherwise, you will have to go around the whole loop again to get back to that spot. We speak from experience haha.

Another way to get around Yosemite Valley is Yosemite’s free shuttle bus. This is a great option when the park is crowded and it is difficult to find a parking spot. There is a Valleywide Shuttle that stops at different trailheads and sites around the valley floor. The shuttle goes from 7am to 10pm. Learn more about the shuttle here.

Or you can ride a bike around the valley floor, which helps you get around traffic jams and one way streets! Some trailheads have places to park and lock up your bikes. You can rent a bike at Curry Village, Yosemite Village, or Yosemite Valley. Lodge. More information on renting a bike here.

OUR FAVORITE HIKES:

Half Dome via John Muir Trail:

Distance: 16.5 miles, out and back
Elevation Gain: 5,305 ft

First thing to know about this hike is that a permit is required to take the cables up to Half Dome. There are park rangers that check for the permits at the base of Sub Dome. Check the website for more information on the permit system.

The hike up to Half Dome is iconic and one of the most dangerous trails in the United States. It is an all day event due to the mileage and steep elevation gain. Make sure to start the hike early in the morning to avoid being on the cables during a spontaneous afternoon thunderstorm. We were fortunate to get permits for the cables July 4, 2024 and it was an amazing experience. Check out our guide to hiking Half Dome here.

Four Mile Trail:

Distance: 9.7 miles, out and back
Elevation Gain: 3,418 ft

This was our first hike in Yosemite National Park and we think it is a great first hike for anyone new to Yosemite. There are amazing views along the trail overlooking the valley, El Capitan, Yosemite Falls, and Half Dome. The trail ends at the well known Glacier Point. Of course you could drive up to this viewpoint via Glacier Point Rd, but it is oh so rewarding to take in the view after you have made the steep hike up to it.

Clouds Rest Trail:

Distance: 12.4 miles, out and back
Elevation Gain: 3,116 ft

In our opinion, this trail offers one of the most incredible views in all of Yosemite National Park. The trailhead starts at the Sunrise Lakes trailhead located off Tioga Road. The trail takes you over a river, up a rocky trail, to a high ledge with panoramic views of the granite mountains and Half Dome with the valley just past it. There is a slightly narrow ridge (nothing compared to Angel’s Landing) and scramble to the top.

You will need to make sure that Tioga Road is open when planning this hike. We did the hike in June, and had to check the website the weeks leading up to our trip to make sure that Tioga Pass was open and cleared of snow. Also, beware of mosquitoes if you go right after the snow melts!

Upper Yosemite Falls Trail:

Distance: 6.6 miles, out and back
Elevation Gain: 3,254 ft

Yosemite Falls is the highest waterfall in the continental United States and most people only view it from a distance or at Lower Yosemite Falls. The trail is steep, starting at the valley floor and takes you all the way to the top of Yosemite Falls. Take in the views of the valley, Half Dome, and base of Upper Yosemite Falls (fun fact: the base of a waterfall is called a plunge pool).

This hike is beautiful, but not our favorite or a must do if you only have a weekend in Yosemite. We think the views on the way up to Glacier Point on 4 Mile Trail are similar, if not better, because you can also see Yosemite Falls from the trail.

However, we did this hike in November when snow was starting to accumulate on the mountains. The cold weather caused the Upper Falls to create a snow cone at its base! It is a phenomenon we have never gotten to see before and worth checking out if you are visiting during the late fall/ early winter.

Vernal and Nevada Falls via Mist Trail:

Distance: 6.4 miles, loop
Elevation Gain: 2,208 ft

A must do hike if you are in Yosemite for the weekend, especially during the spring and summer. Check out two stunning waterfalls with different views of the park than the valley. Mist Trail is appropriately named, with Vernal Falls spitting water at you while you climb the steep stairs to the top of the falls. Pro tip: do this hike during the spring to get the most out of the Mist Trail.

Take the loop to John Muir Trail and see Nevada Falls on your climb back down. The typical recommendation is to start at the Mist Trail and loop back down John Muir Trail because it is easier on the knees. This hike does get really crowded, so make sure to start early!

Mirror Lake Paved Trail:

Distance: 2 miles, out and back
Elevation Gain: 108 ft

We love getting to take Kirby hiking and car camping with us. The Mirror Lake Paved Trail is one trail in Yosemite National Park where dogs are allowed. Mirror Lake is beautiful and gives off the reflection of the surrounding granite mountains. A nice, easy trail with a rewarding view at the end.

Lower Yosemite Falls Trail:

Distance: 1.2 miles
Elevation Gain: 55ft

An easy walk that really is a must on your Yosemite itinerary. Take in the views of the tallest waterfall in the continental US and get up close to the base of the Lower Falls. The trail is completely paved, dog friendly, and does get pretty crowded.

Wapama Falls Trail (Hetch Hetchy):

Distance: 4.7 miles, out and back
Elevation Gain: 1,092 ft

Hetch Hetchy is another valley within Yosemite National Park that has been dammed to provide water for the San Francisco area. While it is not a must do if you are only in the park for a weekend, it is worth checking out if you have more than a few days or get to take a few trips out to the park. This trail takes you over the dam and around the beautiful reservoir to Wapama Falls. The best time to go is in the spring or early summer due to the waterfall drying out later in the year.

POINTS OF INTEREST:

Tenaya Lake:

A beautiful alpine lake with a beach in Tioga Pass. Come to cool off on a summer day or take your paddle board or kayak out onto the lake. We loved coming here after hiking Clouds Rest just to relax and enjoy the water. Tenaya Lake is definitely one of our favorite places to come to in the summer.

Olmstead Point:

An alternate view of Half Dome from the East. The view can be seen from the parking lot or take a short hike down to a small dome for a more peaceful view. A great spot for sunset after spending some time at Tenaya Lake.

Tunnel View:

Probably the most iconic view of Yosemite National Park. This may be your first glimpse of the park if you are driving in from the South Entrance and out of the tunnel. A must see spot overlooking the valley, El Capitan, Half Dome, and Bridalveil Falls. There is parking, but it can get crowded and appears to be a stop for the tour buses that come through.

Glacier Point:

A viewpoint to drive up to or hike up to with of Half Dome up close and personal. You can see Vernal Falls, Nevada Falls, and the valley from this spot. A great place to come up for sunrise with the sun coming up behind Half Dome. There is parking and a bathroom, but this area also gets crowded with people.

Also, if you are driving up, keep your eyes peeled for bears in the meadows. Or bears trying to cross the road. Make sure to follow the speed limit and remember that you are in the bear’s habitat. They unfortunately get killed by drivers speeding through the park or not paying attention.

Prady’s Viewpoint:

This was our first ever glimpse of Half Dome. You will pass this viewpoint on your way into the park if you are coming from the Big Oak Flat Entrance. The granite cliff side of El Cap and a granite mountainside perfectly frame Half Dome between them.

The Mountain Room Lounge:

A trip to Yosemite National Park is not complete without finishing a day of hiking at the Mountain Room Lounge. It is a great place to warm up with the fire in the winter or cool off with a beer during the summer. Make sure to check out the walls of the lounge decorated with historical pictures of people rock climbing throughout the valley.